The first thing we did when we got off the boat in Hong Kong was head for the travel agency. A few hours later we had a $400 ticket to Beijing and a few hours to spend in Hong Kong.
Eric and I got separated from our group, but it didn’t matter because we were meeting at the airport. We just walked around Hong Kong, enjoying the sights. We stopped in a music store and played a few instruments. They only had one drum set and it wasn’t set up so I didn’t get a chance to play that, but they had a bunch of bongos that I played. After that we went to get some lunch. I ordered chicken curry and a Tiger beer. They do chicken slightly differently than I’m used to. They must just hack the chicken up without regard, because every piece had bones in it. There were chunks of chicken with either a bone going right through it, or just fragments of bone stuck in it. I had to pull pieces of bone out of my mouth the entire time. I talked to a few others who had the same experience.
After lunch we walked some more. It seemed like the only stores I could find were Fendi, Gucci, Armani, Louis Vuitton, and every other name that should be included. We hopped on the Star Ferry and headed to Hong Kong Island because our boat was docked in Kowloon and we wanted to check out another area. The Star Ferry cost HK$1.7 which is about $0.21. We walked around and then hopped on the Airport Express.
We flew Dragon Air, and it was the best flying experience I’ve ever had. They had free beers and dinner. I could not believe this! It seemed like we SASsers were the only ones taking advantage of the free drinks. I guess that makes sense because if the Chinese were at all like us the airlines would be out of business. This kind of service would never fly in the U.S. The meal was great too! Beef in sweet and sour sauce with rice and a salad. Then we got ice cream and coffee. What a treat flying in China is.
Also on the flight was the SAS trip to Beijing-Group A. We decided to stay at their hotel. When we got there, my good friend Jamie let me know that he had two double beds and no roommate. The bed was rock hard, but the blanket was nice, and it was free so I wasn’t complaining! When we got to the hotel everyone decided to go walk around at the bars, and we joined them for a while. Sitting in the street sipping on my beer at midnight, thinking about the 6:30 AM meeting we were planning, Jamie and I decided to roll back. I’m glad I did because they didn’t get back until 3! I felt great the next morning, which I am so grateful for, and you’ll see why in the next paragraph.
We had a four hour taxi ride to a remote section of the Great Wall. It is so much better traveling indy because the SAS group went to a different section where there were hundreds of people and a massive group of SASsers. We drove by remote villages and beautiful mountains. We hiked six miles of the roughest terrain I’ve seen. It was the best work out I’ve had since starting Semester at Sea. The Great Wall literally is built on 70-degree slopes. There were sections that were very sketchy. This part of the Wall was built on the top of a ridge. I can’t imagine the man power it took to bring stones up here. I can’t imagine the kind of drive and ambition it must have taken to build this massive wall on the top of the mountain out in the middle of nowhere. There was literally nothing around.
I don’t know what I can say about the Great Wall that has not already been said. We had a lecture on the difference between travel and tourism and what it means to be a travel writer. It is so hard to write about something like the Great Wall.
There was a group of “poor farmers” that followed us half way trying to sell us books. They would point out their small villages and fields. There were small corn fields built into sides of mountains. It was pretty sad to imagine working there. I felt bad for these people, who aren’t even that poor. I don’t know how I’m going to see even poorer people than this and not feel even worse.
I’m definitely not prepared.
Our taxi drivers waited the four hours it took us, and drove us the four hours back. Driving in Beijing is hilarious! Some were scared, some were worried, but I just found it hilarious, as I’m sure all of my friends who lived through the red Corsica would. Our taxi driver came up on a bus and instead of slowing down he pulled onto the shoulder and hit the gas. He had to floor it because there was a biker on the shoulder and we needed to pass the bus before we got to him. We barely missed the guy, and once we were back in our lane, there was another vehicle we need to pass. Our driver pulled into oncoming traffic with his horn blaring. We formed three lanes on a two lane road, with us having two wheels in both lanes, and made it through just fine. This wasn’t uncommon at all, as I saw dozens of people doing this. We passed people on winding roads with no clue who was coming around the corner. We had to slam on our breaks or run people off the road more than once. In the city, everyone drives with little more than an inch or two to spare. Changing lanes means laying on the horn as you edge closer and closer to the car next to you, ultimately forcing him to slam on his breaks and blow his horn.
Everybody I was with was on edge and saying how they could never drive here. I was laid back and laughing and saying how I would love to drive here. This is a driver’s paradise! It took me right back to my 15th birthday, when I got my license.
Safe and sound back in Beijing, we headed out for dinner. I had one goal: Peking duck. I wanted to relive my NYC experience with Peking duck that I had with my family. My group picked the restaurant we ate at because it had Peking duck. I was so excited! Let me preface what happened with a mention of high school days. Baseball trips, football trips, and band trips always seemed to see me not getting my meal. More than once I would order along with everyone else and never get a bit of food. Same thing happened here. Forty-five minutes into the food, I decided to ask where my whole duck was. I received a “sorry.” We paid and left, and although I tried, I still never got Peking duck this entire trip.
The night wasn’t ruined though, and actually ended up being really great. Jamie and I found this little joint on a side street, and bought our 600ml beers for three Yuan, which isn’t even fifty cents. We sat outside and practiced our LOLA skills. Listen Observe Learn Act. The street was filthy and people were peeing outside. There were two groups of Chinese sitting right around us, having a great time. One of them was pretty wasted so it was kind of funny. Across the street from us there was a group of men that were playing some kind of board game that they were really involved with. There was a little convenience store that seemed to stay open all night. Next to that there was an outdoor cooker of some sort that people occasionally went up to and fried something up. It was an awesome night LOLAing with the locals and talking to Jamie.
The third day we saw Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace. It was an interesting day full of history. The Summer Palace is a lake surrounded by gardens and palaces. We rented a boat and went out into the middle and just floated for an hour. It was so relaxing after the amount of walking we had done the past two days.
After that we headed for the airport. The flight back to Hong Kong left at 8:50 and lasted three hours. Zach and I talked politics the entire time. We both had grand plans of sleeping that never came to fruition. It was a great conversation. Zach wound up telling one of the Canadians traveling with us that if all she was going to do was bash on America, she can “get the fuck out.” This didn’t go over well at all and Zach got a middle finger in his face for it. Zach and I were arguing the entire time, but we came together on this issue. Neither of us have any patience for resident aliens who take advantage of everything good about America but then turn around and are completely anti-American. That is like your good friend in high school who is nice to your face and gets all the advantages of the friendship, but then when you aren’t around is calling you a fight starting punk and a menace to society!
Unbelievably enough, I left a bag on the flight, and had to go through all kinds of bureaucracy and phone calls but eventually got it back. I was just so amazed that this happened. But because of this we didn’t get back to the boat until around 3 AM and I was so incredibly tired. It felt so good to go to bed.
The next morning we hit up Stanley Market in Hong Kong. The bus ride to it was amazing enough. It gave me an entirely new view of Hong Kong. There are mountains and beaches. There were still 50+ story buildings, but it felt much more natural. The market was massive. Everything in this country is massive. I totally underestimated the size of everything. Hong Kong is way bigger than I thought. Beijing seems to go on forever. The Wall is bigger than I thought. Tiananmen Square is bigger than I thought, and the Forbidden City is at least ten times the size I figured it was.
After the market we came back to the city, and saw a soccer field and some basketball courts. We were able to get in a game with three Chinese kids, and they worked us over! They were incredibly fast and didn’t miss very many shots. It was such a workout, but it was so much fun. We couldn’t communicate but we could play ball.
When we got back to the ship I was so excited to see the laundry sign up. I was totally out of shirts, pants, and underwear. Right now I’m wearing sweats, my roommate’s shirt, and no underwear.
Overall, I liked China more than Japan. I would live in China before I lived in Japan. The only bad thing is the pollution. The pollution is so awful it is just mind blowing. Everybody literally had sore throats after one day in Beijing. I couldn’t even take a deep breath because it hurt the back of my throat. I felt so unhealthy. It’s no wonder they have all kinds of birth defects which are directly related to the pollution. The rivers run toxic green. If I had to live in China I would want to live as far away from a city as possible. If China continues on its current industrialization path, they will totally destroy their environment.
China is growing at 10% a year, and has been for a few decades. This growth is unprecedented and it is very visible. All I saw in Beijing was construction. It reminded me of Montana, which itself is depressing. Granted, they are doing a lot in preparation for the 2008 Olympics, but there are new skyscrapers everywhere. China can not continue on its industrialization path. They must industrialize in a different way than all the other countries did. The Western world of today industrialized when oil was cheap. China must develop on a different path.
Henry Paulson, the US Secretary of the Treasury, has formed a relationship with China to help shape their economic future. This is great news for America and China. We need to cooperate. I read this on the flight to Beijing.
I also read that Japan’s new Prime Minister wants to strengthen security ties with the US. This is more great news for America.
All I hear is that the US image is destroyed and everyone hates America. When you hear this, you must ask for clarification. It can either mean that the people hate American people, or the people hate the American government. It can also mean that their government hates our government. One person told me that he believed the Japanese and Chinese don’t like us, but they are nice to us because it is their culture. I don’t think anyone on this ship has experienced anti-Americanism. All I hear at the open mics is stories about how helpful people have been.
If the people really don’t like us, but they don’t show it to us, and their governments cooperate and work with the American government, where is the problem?
This issue has become a theme for my trip.